{{PreviewText}} 

edition 13:
What tourism leaves behind

While visiting family near the Ligurian coast, I spent an afternoon in Sanremo, craning my neck at seaside villas built by Russian and English aristocrats chasing winter sun. The palms that now line the promenade— a gift from Tsarina Maria Alexandrovna in 1874 after her winter stay on the coastal town—still shape the town’s postcard image. Tourism, isn’t only an economy; it is a landscaping force whose edits can outlive the traveller.

I felt the same imprint while working in Amsterdam during the silent months of 2021, when twenty‑million tourists vanished overnight. The streets, cafés, and squares felt like they belonged to locals again. No dodging selfie sticks, no long lines—spaces once crowded with outsiders began to breathe again, rediscovering rhythms that felt both familiar and fresh.

Farther afield, tourism’s footprints stretch from medieval routes to modern mega‑projects. On Spain’s Camino de Santiago, centuries of pilgrims have compacted the soil into a ribbon so visible that satellites can trace its edges, and a record 440,000 walkers in 2023 widened the corridor. At the opposite extreme, Venice’s €6 billion MOSE barrier now diverts cruise ships to offshore terminals, an engineering pivot meant to spare the lagoon’s fragile stones from the daily wake of floating high‑rises. Tourism doesn’t simply harm or help—its decisions decide which paths solidify, which waters stay calm, and which stories the landscape keeps telling.

Digital platforms have become architects, too. Guided by likes, views, and algorithmic suggestions, they shape how and where we move—channelling us toward the same newly minted “landmarks.” The Joker Stairs in the Bronx had to be reinforced and patrolled after TikTok made them a pilgrimage stage. A Paris boulevard once known for cafés now hosts crowds reenacting “Emily in Paris”. Cities compress into neat, repeatable snapshots, and the efficiency is seductive, yet it risks reviving an old colonial reflex: arrive with a script, expect the locale to conform.

Not all changes take more than they give. Kyoto now nudges travellers toward outer‑ring temples, easing pressure on its fragile core and spreading revenue more widely, while in Kenya, community‑run conservancies channel bed‑night fees into elephant corridors and village schools, keeping ownership local. Such experiments prove the story is still written in pencil: travellers can learn the paragraph they’re entering, ask who owns the punctuation, and plant seeds that root both guest and host in shared ground.

Estelle

P.S. This edition only scratches the surface. Tourism is too vast, too layered to tackle all at once—its implications stretch across economic systems and inequalities, ecological footprints, cultural narratives, and beyond. But if you’re here—whether subscribed or just about to be—know that there’s more coming your way!

Some numbers

€275

In Portofino, you can be fined over €275 for stopping to take selfies in busy spots—new rules meant to keep foot traffic flowing.

10,000

Barcelona plans to let 10,000 tourist-rental licences expire by 2028.

75%

75% of leisure travellers said social-media posts steered them toward at least one destination in 2023.

Read between the lines

Icon of a person holding a journal

Nice View. Shame About All the TouristsHenry Wismayer, Noema (2024)

In a world where travel is both lifeline and liability, this long read untangles the contradictions shaping today’s tourist hotspots.


Overtourism: Are We Traveling Just to Recreate Instagram Photos?Lucia Antista, Domus (2025)

From influencer routes to crowd-fueled landscapes, a sharp take on how images drive movement—and flatten experience.


The Misunderstood Rise of Anti-Tourism in EuropeUmang Vinayaka, Harvard International Review (2024)

A closer look at the rise in protest signs and policy shifts across Europe—and why it’s more complex than visitor fatigue.


Don’t Give Up on Tourism. Just Do It Better.Chelsea Leu, The Atlantic (2024)

Can tourism be saved from itself? A compelling review of the book calling for a slower, more mutual kind of travel.

Welcoming architecture

Built as both threshold and buffer, these visitor centres do more than greet arrivals—they shape how we enter landscapes, how we move through them, and how much of them remains once we’ve left.


Visitor Center Dalovica Pecina

Visitor Center Đalovića Pećina — Đalovića Gorge, Montenegro

Image of Bomarsund Visitor Center

Bomarsund Visitor Centre — Bomarsund, Åland Islands (Finland)

image of skamlingsbanken visitor center

Skamlingsbanken Visitor Center — Sjølund, Denmark

Image of pustevyn gateway center

Pustevny Gateway Center — Beskids Mountains, Czechia

Image hammershus visitor center

Hammershus Visitor Center — Bornholm Island, Denmark

Image from grande dune du pilat visitor center

Grande Dune du Pilat Visitor Centre — La Teste-de-Buch, France

Mixed media journeys

Documentary: The Last Tourist, 2021

90-minute dive into tourism’s hidden costs —from animal exploitation to economic imbalance—while spotlighting those rewriting the rules on the ground.

Cover of the last tourist documentary

TV show: The White Lotus, 2021–2025

Beneath the glam and gossip, this jet-set satire captures the dissonance between fantasy and footprint, turning each season into a new mirror on privilege in paradise.

Cover of the white lotus show

YouTube channel: Kids of the Colony

Three young Londoners reconnect with their roots across Bangladesh, Pakistan, and Somaliland, reshaping what travel means through local stories and shared heritage.

Screengrab from kids of the colony youtube channel

Travel re-routed


Logo Closed for Maintenance

Closed for Maintenance, Open for Voluntourism — Faroe Islands

Each spring only 80 volunteers gain entry, trading trail repairs for lodging and a deeper stake in the isles.

Logo of Invisible Cities

Invisible Cities Walking Tours — United Kingdom

Formerly homeless guides lead visitors through Edinburgh, Manchester, York and beyond, flipping who narrates a city.

Logo of Transilvanica

Transilvanica — Romania

A 1,400-km community-built trail threading 400 villages, spreading hikers—and income—across the countryside.

Re-drawing maps

Todo Baoj el Sol cover

Todo Bajo el Sol — Ana Penyas, 2021

Graphic-novel chronicle of a fishing village morphing into a souvenir metropolis across three generations.

sunburn cover

Sunburn — Andi Watson & Simon Gane, 2022

A teen’s Greek-island summer unravels postcard fantasies, revealing class gaps and holiday illusions.

Our Picks

Our Picks Banner

Virgin — Lorde’s new album.

DaDaDan Season 2 — The second season of the DaDaDan anime series.

The Mozart of the Attention Economy — a podcast by The Guardian on the rise of MrBeast.

The Shell — a series of imaginary shell pools by digital artist Marius Troy.

Filthy Animals — a collection of short stories by Brandon Taylor on intimacy and vulnerability.

NOC is a constant work-in-progress. We want to hear your thoughts, recommendations and ideas—reply to the newsletter via email or write to us on social media (LinkedIn or Instagram). Your input will help shape where we go next!

You can browse past editions on our website.

Was this email forwarded to you? You can register to our newsletter here.

One ask from us: to avoid our newsletter landing in your spam inbox, add our email address as a contact.